Lighting Services We Offer — Installation Across All 5 NYC Boroughs
We install every type of residential lighting across Manhattan, Brooklyn, Queens, Bronx, and Staten Island — from ceiling fixtures to lamp posts, all with licensed, insured work and a 1-year warranty on parts and labor.
Which types of lighting do you install?
- Ceiling lights and flush mounts: Standard junction-box fixtures for rooms with 8-foot ceilings — common in pre-war Manhattan apartments and newer construction alike.
- Chandeliers and pendant lights: Fixtures over 50 pounds require a ceiling support brace (Arlington FBS-1 or similar) installed through the junction-box hole — no attic access needed.
- Recessed lighting: Can housings need 6+ inches of ceiling clearance; wafer-thin LED retrofit kits work with just 2 inches and require no rewiring.
- Wall sconces and track lighting: Wall sconces need a wall junction box; track lighting mounts to ceiling or wall with adjustable heads — we carry Leviton and Lutron track systems on every truck.
- Under-cabinet lighting: Hardwired or plug-in LED strip or puck lights for kitchens — we install with dimmable drivers so you can adjust brightness without flickering.
- Outdoor fixtures (security lights, floodlights, lamp posts): For lamp posts, we trench and run underground conduit with a concrete base — NYC DOB permit required for any trenching work.
Do you work in all 5 NYC boroughs?
Yes — we provide lighting installation across all 5 NYC boroughs: Manhattan, Brooklyn, Queens, Bronx, and Staten Island. Our trucks are stocked with fixtures, dimmers, junction boxes, and support braces so we handle most jobs in a single visit. Each borough has its own wiring quirks — pre-war Manhattan apartments often have knob-and-tube wiring that must be replaced before any new fixture goes in, while Staten Island houses frequently need underground conduit for lamp post installations. In Brooklyn brownstones, I routinely find unrated junction boxes that can’t support modern fixture weight — we swap those out for code-compliant boxes as part of the install. For Bronx co-ops, we coordinate with building management on work-hour restrictions, typically 9 AM to 5 PM weekdays.
What does lighting installation cost in NYC?
| Fixture Type | Typical Cost | Time Estimate | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Basic ceiling light / flush mount | $150–$250 | 45–60 min | Standard junction box, no wiring changes |
| Chandelier (standard) | $200–$400 | 60–120 min | Requires ceiling support brace if over 50 lbs |
| Chandelier with support brace | $250–$500 | 90–150 min | Arlington FBS-1 brace installed through box hole |
| Recessed lighting (per can) | $200–$350 | 60–90 min each | Needs 6+ inches ceiling clearance for can housing |
| Wall sconce | $150–$300 | 45–75 min | Requires wall junction box installation |
| Outdoor fixture (damp/wet rated) | $200–$400 | 60–90 min | Weatherproof box required |
| Lamp post with underground conduit | $500–$1,200 | 3–5 hours | DOB permit required for trenching |
Can you install a chandelier in a Manhattan apartment?
Yes — we install chandeliers in Manhattan apartments every week. Pre-war buildings bring specific challenges: plaster ceilings without backing, older wiring, and co-op restrictions that require advance coordination.
What’s involved in installing a chandelier in a pre-war Manhattan apartment?
- Ceiling inspection: We identify lath-and-plaster vs drywall and locate joists. Pre-war ceilings in Manhattan apartments almost always have no backing between joists — a fixture over 50 lbs needs independent support.
- Support brace installation: For chandeliers over 50 lbs, we install an Arlington FBS-1 adjustable brace through the junction box hole — no attic access required, and it spans between joists to carry the weight.
- Wiring assessment: We check for knob-and-tube (pre-1940s) or aluminum wiring (1965–1973). Knob-and-tube must be replaced entirely before any fixture goes in — that adds $500–$2,000 to the project but is non-negotiable for code compliance.
- Fixture assembly and wiring: We assemble the chandelier on the ground, thread wires through the canopy and chain, then connect to house wiring with wire nuts — black to black, white to white, ground to ground.
- Mounting and testing: We lift the fixture, attach the canopy, adjust chain length, install bulbs, and test all functions including dimmer compatibility. On my read, flickering after install almost always means an incompatible dimmer — we swap it on the spot.
How long does chandelier installation take in a Manhattan apartment?
A standard chandelier install in a Manhattan apartment runs 60–120 minutes. If a ceiling support brace is needed, add 30–60 minutes; if the wiring needs updating, add another 1–2 hours. The bulk of that time goes into the ceiling prep — cutting into lath-and-plaster is slower than drywall, and we use a plaster saw to keep dust down. Co-op buildings often restrict electrical work to 9 AM–5 PM weekdays, so we schedule accordingly and coordinate with building management in advance to avoid delays.
Do you handle co-op and condo board approvals for chandelier installation?
We work with co-op and condo boards across Manhattan to schedule chandelier installations within their approved hours — typically 9 AM–5 PM weekdays. Some buildings require board approval for fixture changes, and we provide the documentation needed: proof of insurance, license numbers, and a scope-of-work letter. But some upper-floor units prohibit ceiling work entirely due to sound transmission concerns with downstairs neighbors — we check this during the initial consultation so there are no surprises on install day.
What are the benefits of LED lighting?
LED lighting benefits include dramatic energy savings over incandescent and CFL bulbs, a lifespan measured in decades, and versatile color-temperature options for every room in a NYC home.
How much energy do LED lights save compared to incandescent?
| Feature | Incandescent | CFL | LED |
|---|---|---|---|
| Energy use (vs incandescent) | Baseline | 60–70% less | 75–80% less |
| Lifespan | 1,000 hours | 8,000 hours | 25,000–50,000 hours |
| Years at 3 hrs/day | ~1 year | ~7 years | 23–46 years |
| Heat output | Hot (200°F+) | Warm (130°F) | Cool (100–120°F) |
| Instant on | Yes | No (warm-up) | Yes |
| Mercury | No | Yes (4–5 mg) | No |
| Dimmable | Yes (standard dimmer) | Limited | Yes (LED dimmer required) |
| NYC household annual savings | — | ~$50–$100 | ~$100–$200 |
What color temperature should I choose for each room?
- Living room / bedroom: 2700K (warm white) — matches the warmth of incandescent, creates a cozy atmosphere
- Kitchen / bathroom: 3000K (soft white) — bright enough for tasks without feeling clinical
- Home office: 3500K–4000K (neutral white) — reduces eye strain during long work sessions
- Garage / workshop / basement: 4000K–5000K (daylight) — maximizes visibility for detail work
- Hallways / entryways: 2700K–3000K — warm enough to feel inviting, bright enough for safety
Do LED bulbs work with existing dimmer switches?
Standard incandescent dimmers will not work properly with LED bulbs — they cause flickering, buzzing, and reduced bulb lifespan. You need an LED-compatible dimmer, and we carry Lutron and Leviton models on every truck. The LED lighting benefits of dimmability only kick in when the circuit is matched: a Lutron Maestro or Leviton Decora LED-rated dimmer treats the bulb’s driver correctly, and our techs swap the old switch in about 20 minutes. Many pre-1980s NYC buildings have switch loops without a neutral wire, which means some smart dimmers won’t work — we carry no-neutral-required options like Lutron Caseta for those situations.
How do I choose the right light fixture for my room?
Choosing the right fixture comes down to room size, ceiling height, function, and style — a simple framework that keeps the result both practical and good-looking.
What size fixture do I need for my room?
- Fixture diameter: Room width (ft) + room length (ft) × 2 = fixture diameter in inches. A 12×14 ft room calls for a 52-inch fixture — that formula keeps proportions balanced.
- Ceiling height: 8 ft ceilings work with flush or semi-flush mounts. At 9+ ft you can hang pendants or chandeliers — the fixture bottom should sit 7 ft above the floor so nobody bumps their head.
- Dining table: Chandelier width should be half to two-thirds of table width, with the bottom 30–36 inches above the table surface. Too high and the light spreads thin; too low and it blocks sightlines.
- Kitchen island: Space pendants 30–36 inches apart, bottom 30–36 inches above the counter. One pendant per 2 ft of island length — a 6 ft island gets three pendants for even coverage.
- Lumens: Aim for 20 lumens per sq ft for ambient lighting. A 200 sq ft room needs 4,000 lumens total — that’s roughly four 60W-equivalent LED bulbs.
What fixture style works best in a Brooklyn brownstone?
Brooklyn brownstones with their original architectural details — crown molding, high ceilings, exposed brick — look best with traditional fixtures like classic chandeliers, wall sconces, and semi-flush mounts that complement the period character. The 19th-century bones of these buildings demand fixtures that respect the original proportions rather than fighting them. A polished brass or oil-rubbed bronze chandelier with candelabra bulbs reads natural in a parlor with a marble mantel and plaster medallion. We’ve seen too many brownstone owners install ultra-modern fixtures that clash with the architecture — a transitional style that bridges traditional and modern usually works better than going all-in on either extreme.
Can you help me choose fixtures during the consultation?
During our free on-site consultation, we measure the room, check ceiling height and wiring, and recommend fixture types that fit both your style and the building’s electrical capabilities — including which dimmers and controls will work with your chosen fixtures. We look at the existing junction box condition, ceiling structure (lath-and-plaster vs drywall), and whether a support brace is needed for heavier pieces. On my read, the most overlooked factor in NYC is building-specific restrictions — some co-ops ban ceiling fans in bedrooms or exposed bulbs in hallways — so we can steer you toward compliant options before you buy anything.
What safety codes apply to lighting installation in NYC?
All lighting work in New York City must follow the 2025 NYC Electrical Code, with a licensed electrician handling every job — safety is built into the process from the first wire nut.
What electrical code governs lighting installation in NYC?
All lighting installation in NYC must comply with the 2025 NYC Electrical Code, effective December 21, 2025, which is based on the 2023 NEC with NYC-specific amendments. Our NYC DOB Licensed Master Electricians ensure every job meets these requirements. The code mandates junction boxes for every fixture — no direct-wire mounting to plaster or drywall is allowed — and specifies box-fill calculations that limit how many wires can sit inside a single enclosure. For dwelling-unit lighting circuits, the 2025 code added stricter AFCI protection requirements: if your panel still uses standard breakers, we may need to upgrade them to AFCI units during the installation.
When do I need a DOB permit for lighting installation?
- Permit required: New wiring, adding new circuits, panel upgrades, structural modifications (e.g., cutting into ceiling joists), and underground conduit for lamp posts all need a NYC DOB permit before work starts.
- Permit not required: Simple fixture replacement in the same location with the same wiring — swapping a flush mount for a semi-flush mount or installing a dimmer switch without running new cable — typically does not need a permit.
- Gray area: Chandelier installation with a ceiling support brace may require a permit if the brace involves structural modification to the ceiling, such as cutting joist notches or adding blocking.
- Who pulls the permit: We handle all permit applications for jobs that require them — our licensed electricians are authorized to pull permits with the NYC DOB, so you don’t need to navigate the process yourself.
What wiring issues require special attention in NYC buildings?
- Knob-and-tube wiring (pre-1940s): Must be replaced entirely before any new fixture installation — it cannot be extended or modified. Common in pre-war Manhattan apartments and Brooklyn brownstones.
- Aluminum wiring (1965–1973): Requires CO/ALR rated devices and antioxidant paste at every connection. Splices must use approved connectors like AlumiConn or Copalum — standard wire nuts won’t pass inspection.
- Missing neutral wire (pre-1980s): Switch loops without a neutral prevent installation of smart switches and most LED dimmers. Our fix: run a new wire or use a no-neutral-required model like Lutron Caseta.
- Undersized or unrated junction boxes: Older boxes may not support modern fixture weight or meet box-fill requirements. We replace them with code-compliant boxes rated for the fixture during the installation.
Wrapping it up — smart lighting choices for NYC homes
Main takeaways for NYC lighting installation
Lighting installation in NYC requires more than just picking a fixture you like — it demands knowledge of the 2025 NYC Electrical Code, familiarity with pre-war wiring systems, and an understanding of building-specific restrictions. Whether you’re installing a chandelier in a Manhattan co-op, upgrading to LED throughout a Queens home, or adding outdoor lighting to a Staten Island property, the key is working with licensed professionals who know the local landscape. The right fixture, properly installed with code-compliant wiring and the correct dimmers, will perform safely and efficiently for decades. From sizing and style selection to permit handling and wiring updates, every step matters — and getting it right the first time saves money, time, and frustration.
