What Size Generator Do I Need for My Home?
Getting the generator size right starts with a load calculation of your critical appliances — we include this free assessment during every site survey across the five boroughs.
How do I calculate the generator size I need?
Generator sizing starts with a load calculation — add up the running wattage of your critical appliances (refrigerator 600–800W, furnace 800–1500W, sump pump 800–1200W, lights 300–500W) and multiply the total by a 1.25 safety factor. That number, expressed in kW, is the minimum rating your generator needs to carry without tripping the overload breaker. A 10kW unit covers about 8,000W of continuous load after that safety factor is applied — fine for refrigeration, heating, and a few lights. But here’s the pitfall: a 3-ton central air conditioner alone pulls 3,500–4,000W at startup. If you want cooling during an outage, you need at least a 14kW generator, not a 10kW. The most common sizing mistake I see in the field is homeowners buying a 10kW thinking it will run everything, then calling us when the overload trips the minute the AC compressor kicks on.
What size generator do I need for a typical NYC home?
| Home Type | Typical Size | What It Powers | Panel Requirement |
|---|---|---|---|
| Brooklyn brownstone (gas heat, gas stove) | 10–14kW | Refrigerator, furnace, sump pump, lights, TV — no central AC | 100A panel OK; 200A recommended |
| Single-family home (central AC, electric appliances) | 14–22kW | Whole house including 3–4 ton central AC, electric oven, well pump | 200A panel required |
| Apartment building (4–12 units) | 22–48kW | Elevators, common areas, boiler, some unit outlets | 200A+ or 3-phase service |
What Are the Best Whole House Generator Brands?
The best generator brand depends on your home size, budget, and noise tolerance — we install and service all major brands across NYC.
Generac vs Kohler vs Cummins: which generator brand is best for NYC?
| Brand | Noise Level (dBA at 23 ft) | Best For | Price Tier |
|---|---|---|---|
| Generac Guardian 22kW | 62 dBA | Most NYC homes — parts widely available, techs know them | Mid-range |
| Kohler RESA 20kW | 56 dBA | Noise-sensitive brownstones — quietest operation | Premium (+15–25%) |
| Cummins RS20 | 65 dBA | Apartment buildings — commercial-grade reliability | Premium |
| Briggs & Stratton 20kW | 68 dBA | Budget-conscious homeowners | Mid-range |
| Champion 12kW | 72 dBA | Portable backup only — not for whole house | Budget |
Which generator brand do you recommend for a Brooklyn brownstone?
For a Brooklyn brownstone, we recommend the Generac 14kW or Kohler 14kW — both are the right size for gas-heated homes without central AC, and parts are readily available across NYC. The Generac Guardian series dominates the local market, so most techs know the controller layout and common failure points by heart. Kohler’s RESA line uses a corrosion-resistant aluminum enclosure that holds up better in the damp, narrow side yards typical of brownstone row houses. On the bench, I’ve seen Generac voltage regulators fail around the 500-hour mark, while Kohler’s fuel-regulator sticking tends to show up earlier but is a simpler fix. If your brownstone has shared walls with neighbors, the Kohler’s 56 dBA rating makes a real difference — at that level it’s quieter than normal conversation, which reduces noise complaints.
How Does a Generator Connect to My Home’s Electrical System?
A standby generator connects through a transfer switch that sits between your utility meter and main electrical panel, automatically switching your home to generator power when the grid goes down.
What is a transfer switch and why do I need one?
A transfer switch is the device that connects your generator to your home’s electrical panel—it detects utility power loss in 10–30 seconds, signals the generator to start, and safely transfers your home’s load to generator power. The switch sits between your utility meter and main panel, with a 240V, 2-pole breaker feeding the generator output through conduit (Schedule 40 PVC or rigid metal). An automatic transfer switch (ATS) handles the whole sequence without human intervention—when utility power returns, it waits 5 minutes for grid stabilization, transfers back, then runs the generator for a cool-down cycle before shutting off. Never backfeed through a dryer outlet or extension cord—it’s illegal under the 2025 NYC Electrical Code and deadly because it energizes utility lines, putting Con Edison linemen at risk.
What’s the difference between automatic and manual transfer switches?
- Automatic Transfer Switch (ATS): Detects power loss, starts the generator, transfers load, and switches back when utility returns—all without you touching anything.
- Manual Transfer Switch (MTS): You must manually flip the switch to generator position, then start the generator—cheaper but requires you to be home and alert.
- Whole-house recommendation: ATS is standard for standby generators—it ensures your home has power even if you’re not there when the outage starts.
What does the full installation process look like?
- Site survey & load calculation (1–2 hours): We measure your panel capacity and calculate the kW you need—free with any service booking.
- Permit application (2–6 weeks): We submit stamped plans to NYC DOB and notify Con Edison for gas line work.
- Concrete pad preparation (1 day): We pour a 4″ minimum reinforced concrete pad sized to your generator’s footprint.
- Gas line & electrical connection (1–2 days): We run conduit, install the ATS, connect the generator, and pressure-test the gas line.
- Commissioning (2–4 hours): We start the generator, run it under load, verify transfer switch operation, and set the weekly exercise timer.
Can You Install a Generator in a Brooklyn Brownstone?
Yes — we install generators in Brooklyn brownstones regularly. The key challenges are panel capacity, gas line sizing, and noise compliance with attached neighbors.
Do I need a panel upgrade before installing a generator in my brownstone?
Most Brooklyn brownstones have 100A panels, and a standby generator installation typically requires a 200A panel — a panel upgrade adds $4,500–$6,500 to the total project cost. The generator itself draws 240V through a 50A or 60A breaker, and the 100A panel simply doesn’t have the spare capacity or bus bar rating to accept that load alongside existing circuits. We check this on every site survey: we open the panel cover, verify the bus bar rating (most 100A panels are rated for 125A max), and calculate whether there’s room for a new double-pole breaker. If your brownstone was built before 1960 and still has the original push-button or fuse panel, you’ll need a full upgrade anyway — the generator installation just makes it mandatory sooner.
Where do you place a generator in a brownstone with limited yard space?
- Backyard placement: Most common — concrete pad sized 4’×4′ to 6’×6′, minimum 5 feet from any window, door, or building opening.
- Side yard: Possible if you have at least 3 feet of clearance — but exhaust must not vent toward neighbor’s windows.
- Rubber isolation pads: Required for brownstones with shared walls — they reduce vibration transfer that can cause neighbor complaints.
- Sound-attenuated enclosure: Recommended for any brownstone installation — reduces noise by 10–15 dBA and helps comply with NYC’s 45 dBA nighttime noise limit.
What about gas line requirements for a brownstone generator?
Brownstones typically have a 1/2″ gas line, but most standby generators require 3/4″ or 1″ — we coordinate with Con Edison to upgrade the line, which takes 2–6 weeks alongside the DOB permit process. The gas meter itself may also need a larger regulator, and we verify the total BTU load of the house (furnace, stove, water heater, plus the new generator) to ensure the street-side supply is adequate. An undersized gas line is the second most common installation failure — the generator starves for fuel, runs rough, and may not start under load, so we always verify gas line capacity during the site survey.
What Is the Best Generator for a NYC Apartment Building?
Apartment building generators need to handle shared systems like elevators, boilers, and common areas — the right size and brand depend on your building’s electrical service and number of units.
What size generator does a 4–12 unit apartment building need?
A 4–12 unit apartment building typically needs a 22kW–48kW generator, sized to cover elevators (10–20kW), boiler (3–8kW), sump pumps (2–5kW), common area lighting (2–5kW), security systems (1–2kW), and at least one outlet per unit. The load calculation must include the building’s electrical riser capacity — most NYC apartment buildings run on 3-phase power, so your standby generator must be 3-phase capable; single-phase residential units won’t drive elevator motors or commercial HVAC equipment. On a recent 8-unit building in Astoria, the elevator alone pulled 18kW at startup. Before you spec a generator, get a building-wide load calculation from a licensed electrician — the number of units alone doesn’t tell you what the electrical service can handle.
Which brands work best for apartment building generators?
- Cummins RS25 (25kW): Best for 4–8 unit buildings — commercial-grade, 3-phase capable, excellent cold-weather starting, though parts are more specialized than other brands.
- Generac Protector (24kW–48kW): Best for 6–12 unit buildings — good value, parts widely available across NYC, multiple 3-phase models in the lineup.
- Kohler RESA 26kW: Best for high-end buildings — quietest operation at 56 dBA, corrosion-resistant enclosure, premium build quality that holds up on rooftops.
- Installation note: Apartment building installations require a building-wide electrical study and structural engineering if the generator goes on the roof — a concrete pad alone won’t support the load on a brownstone’s roof structure.
What Are the Safety Requirements for Generator Operation?
Generator safety is non-negotiable — carbon monoxide kills, backfeeding kills linemen, and improper installation can burn your house down. Here’s what NYC code requires.
Where must a generator be placed to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning?
NYC code requires all generators at least 5 feet from windows, doors, and building openings — carbon monoxide is odorless, and even a cracked window pulls exhaust inside. Portable generators need 20 feet from the house minimum. Never in a garage, basement, or crawlspace. That 20-foot rule applies to AC intakes too — a rooftop condenser can draw CO straight into the ductwork. Standby generators produce CO even at idle, so the 5-foot setback applies to every opening including dryer vents and basement window wells. On brownstone jobs I’ve seen CO detectors trigger from a generator placed 6 feet from a neighbor’s basement stairwell. The 20-foot portable rule isn’t NYC-specific — it’s NFPA 37, and we enforce it on every install.
What electrical safety rules apply to generator installation?
- Transfer switch required: Every standby generator must connect through a transfer switch — backfeeding through a dryer outlet is illegal under NYC code and can kill utility workers.
- Licensed electrician: All electrical connections must be made by a NYC DOB-licensed Master Electrician — we have one on staff for every installation.
- Proper grounding: The generator must be bonded to the building’s grounding system, and a separate ground rod may be required per NYC code.
- CO detectors: Required in all living spaces adjacent to the generator — we install them as part of every standby generator job.
- Fire safety: Generator must sit on a non-combustible concrete pad with 3 feet clearance from combustible materials, and we recommend keeping a fire extinguisher nearby.
What Is the Noise Level of a Standby Generator?
Standby generators produce 56–72 dBA at 23 feet — comparable to normal conversation to a busy street. NYC’s noise code limits nighttime levels to 45 dBA at the property line, so placement and sound attenuation matter.
How loud is a typical standby generator in decibels?
| Generator Model | Noise Level (dBA at 23 ft) | Comparable To |
|---|---|---|
| Kohler RESA 20kW | 56 dBA | Quiet office / normal conversation |
| Generac Guardian 22kW | 62 dBA | Normal conversation |
| Cummins RS20 | 65 dBA | Vacuum cleaner |
| Briggs & Stratton 20kW | 68 dBA | Dishwasher |
| Champion 12kW | 72 dBA | Busy street |
How can I make my generator quieter to comply with NYC noise code?
NYC noise code limits generators to 45 dBA at the property line after 10 PM — most standby generators exceed this, so we recommend sound-attenuated enclosures and strategic placement. Noise drops about 6 dBA for every doubling of distance — moving a 62 dBA generator from 23 feet to 46 feet from the property line brings it to 56 dBA, which may be enough to comply without an enclosure.
- Sound-attenuated enclosure: Reduces noise by 10–15 dBA — costs $500–$1,500 and is the most effective solution for most installations.
- Strategic placement: Place the generator behind the building, away from neighbor’s windows and the property line — every 2x distance = 6 dBA reduction.
- Rubber isolation pads: Reduce vibration transmission through the ground and shared walls — essential for brownstones.
- Choose a quieter brand: Kohler’s 56 dBA rating is the quietest in the market — often compliant without additional sound attenuation.
- Portable generators: Much louder at 65–80 dBA — not suitable for permanent installation in noise-sensitive NYC neighborhoods.
What Maintenance Does a Generator Need?
A standby generator needs monthly visual checks you can do yourself and annual professional service — skipping maintenance is the #1 reason generators fail during outages.
What monthly maintenance should I do on my generator?
- Visual inspection: Check oil level, coolant level (liquid-cooled models), battery connections for corrosion, and exhaust system for damage.
- Run under load: Verify the exercise cycle ran — or manually run the generator for 20–30 minutes with some load (lights, refrigerator).
- Check for leaks: Look for oil, coolant, or fuel puddles under the generator — any leak needs professional attention.
- Listen for odd sounds: Knocking, rattling, or rough running during exercise means something needs service.
What annual professional maintenance does a generator need?
- Oil and filter change: Drain old oil (SAE 10W-30 or 5W-30), replace filter, refill with 1.5–2.5 quarts — annual or every 100 hours.
- Air filter replacement: Foam or paper element — clean or replace annually.
- Spark plug replacement: Check gap (0.030″), replace if fouled — annual or every 100 hours.
- Battery load test: Replace if below 12.4V or CCA below 70% — typical battery life is 3–5 years.
- Valve adjustment: Every 500 hours — requires professional tools and expertise.
- Coolant check (liquid-cooled): Top off with 50/50 mix — flush and replace every 2 years.
What happens if I skip generator maintenance?
Skipping maintenance leads to the four most common generator failures: dead battery (won’t start), clogged air filter (reduced power), old oil (engine wear), and stale fuel (carburetor gumming). The battery is the biggest culprit — a lead-acid battery sitting idle loses charge at about 1% per day, and the exercise cycle is the only thing keeping it topped off. An air filter clogged with dust and debris chokes the engine, dropping output by 30–40% before it stalls. Old oil turns acidic and eats bearing surfaces from the inside out. Stale gasoline, if you’re running a dual-fuel model, gums the carburetor jets in as little as 30 days. We see it every storm season — a generator that hasn’t been serviced in 2+ years fails to start, and by the time we arrive the outage is over and the homeowner paid a service call for something annual maintenance would have prevented.
Conclusion
Choosing the right generator for your NYC home comes down to sizing it for your actual load, picking a brand that matches your noise tolerance and budget, and ensuring the installation complies with NYC DOB and Con Edison rules.
Main takeaways
A properly sized standby generator with an automatic transfer switch will keep your refrigerator running, your furnace heating, and your sump pump pumping during the next blackout — but only if you maintain it. Monthly visual checks and annual professional service are the difference between a generator that starts when you need it and one that sits dead in the yard. Whether you live in a brownstone, a single-family home, or an apartment building, the key is planning ahead — permitting takes weeks, not days, so don’t wait until the storm is on the radar.









